Grotti climbing in Lazio, Italy
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Grotti
Lazio - Italy
by Nicola Milanese

Many articles have been published about Grotti, but most date back to the early '90's when this crag had only just been discovered. Many believed Grotti might become one of the largest crags in Italy, but after this initial euphoria things soon died down.

The situation has changed recently though, and new routing activity has now begun in earnest with the discovery of a new sector, La Curva. 70 new lines have been created here and many established routes at Grotti Classica and Grotti Alta have been rebolted. The entire crag now boasts over 230 routes, with plenty more still to come.

Many of these new routes are significantly easier than the older ones, making the crag more accessible to the wider public. Nevertheless, Grotti remains enormous and you'll never have to queue for a route. At times the pockets are painfully sharp, so much so that rest days are obligatory to let the skin recover. Just the right moment to stop off at Ferentillo, a mere 40 minutes from Rieti!

Getting there
Grotti lies roughly 100km NNE of Rome. Drive to Rieti if coming from the north. From here follow signs for Aquila and turn right immediately for the Valle del Salto to arrive at Grotti after 8km. Park discreetly on the left near a hunting shop before entering this small village. From here walk left past a chicken pen up to the crag (10mins).
If you come from the south leave the A24 at the exit for Valle del Salto and follow signs for Rieti to Grotti.

The climbing
Magnificent pocketed limestone. The left-hand sector transforms into conglomerate limestone. Well-placed glued-in resin bolts ensure you won't pick up too many air miles!


La Curva
5c+: 2
6c+: 17
7c+: 33
8a and above: 11
total: 63

Grotti Alta
5c+: 2
6c+: 31
7c+: 81
8a and above: 41
total: 155


Food and Accommodation
There are no campsites nearby. If you're lucky enough to own a camper you can spend the night in Piazza delle Feste, 100m from the center of Grotti. The alternative is to find a cheap room in nearby Rieti.

Notes
News archive Grotti
19/05/2004 Alessandro Lamberti frees Er Cid 8c, Carpe Diem and King for a Day
16/01/2004 Gaia Montuori climbs Good bye 1999 8a+/8b
06/11/2002 Alessandro Lamberti climbs and repeats
23/05/2002 Brenna let loose at the Grotta dell’aeronauta and Grotti
 INFO
 Portfolio
Sectors and routes
 Grotti Alta Paretone
 Grotti Alta Mano Rossa
 La Curva Fuori Orario
Location: Grotti
Province: Rieti
Best time of year: It gets hot in Grotti, so go in winter, late autumn or early spring.
It is possible to climb in light rain.
Rock: Magnificent pocketed limestone.
Gear: 15 quickdraws
Rope: 70m
Beauty:
Height: 40m
Orientation: S
Grades: 4c - 8c
Number of routes: 230
Bibliography: The most updated guidebook is "Arrampicare in Abruzzo" by Sergio Di Renzo. It covers Grotti and all the other main climbing areas in this region.

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