Erto climbing in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy

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ROCK - CRAGS

Erto	Friuli Venezia Giulia - Italy

by Roberto Casanova

The steeply overhanging Erto has long been known as one of the hardest crags in Italy, hitting the limelight a few years ago with Luca Zardini’s first ascent of "The big Mother" (8c+).

Thankfully most routes are somewhat easier than Zardini’s tespiece, but the routes require plenty of power and stamina, especially since the rock tends to be extremely polished. And thankfully the sector called “No big”, located just a few hundred meters away, has plenty of slab routes from 4a-7a+.

Getting there

From the south: take the A27 Mestre – Belluno motorway and exit at Longarone. Reach Longarone and then turn off right for Erto, Val Cellina and Pordenone. The crag springs into view after the tunnels and the Vajont dam.

The climbing

Steeply overhanging powerful routes

Food and Accommodation

Hotels in Longarone

Notes

News Erto

13/07/2010

Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the North Face of Gasherbrum I

21/06/2010

Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition

05/11/2009

Chang Himal North Face first ascent for Bullock and Houseman

14/07/2009

Climbing at Bassilandia, Arco

10/06/2009

La grande linea dei sogni repeated by Luca Zardini

21/04/2009

Adam Ondra raids Italy

10/04/2009

Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and the South Face of Annapurna

05/04/2009

Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi

02/04/2009

'La linea dei Sogni' at Erto by Luca Zardini

17/03/2009

La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio

INFO

Portfolio

Sectors and routes

	1 - 30
	31 - 51
	52 - 64
	65 - 81

Click to enlarge

Location: Erto

Province: Pordenone

Best time of year: Climbing is possible all year round as the overhang protects against the rain.
Autumn and spring tend to e the best time of year, but climbing is also possible on sunny winter days.

Rock: Limestone

Gear: Full set of quickdraws

Rope: 70m

Beauty: