Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowDryland mixed climbing above Innsbruck

Dryland mixed climbing above Innsbruck

18.12.2006 by

Over the last two years Albert Leichtfried, one of Austria's leading mixed climbers, has almost single handedly developed the mixed-crag Dryland. The result is one of the hardest coldspots in Europe, with 10 routes weighing in from M5 to M13- and plenty of potential for new routes.

Over the last two years Albert Leichtfried, one of Austria's leading mixed climbers, has almost single handedly developed the mixed-crag Dryland. The result is one of the hardest coldspots in Europe, with 10 routes weighing in from M5 to M13- and plenty of potential for new routes.

Located high above Innsbruck, Leichtfried describes the small crag as being special because of "the high amount of ice on every route in good winters. Another nice feature is the hole in the wall, which you easily can walk through and have a warm rest in the sun."

Sounds good to us. Check out the routes, description and topo below. Enjoy.


Drylands
Orientation: S, SE, E – shade nearly all day because of a rock wall in front
Altitude: 1300m
Grades: M5-M13
No. of routes: 10 routes, with plenty of potential for more
Best time: January- March
Gear: 12 quickdraws, mixed gear
Keep in mind: The approach is very exposed to avalanches after big snowfalls
Map: AV-Nr. 5/1

How to get there:
Exit Innsbruck West. Follow the signs to Alpenzoo / Hungerburg, when you reach Hungerburg (cable car up to Seegrube) follow the signs to "Gasthof Gramartboden". Park at this restaurant "Gasthof Gramartboden".

Approach:
Follow the path heading upwards into the forest. At the first crossing after 150m (sign to Höttinger Alm) go right and from here continue straight upwards. After an hour you reach a rock climbing crag. Dryland is located on the opposite side of this gully(60-90min).


Icefall (l to r)
F.A. Grade
Comp
Grade
Reloaded
Comments
Tension
01/04
M11-
M12+
Good rests with Spur in roofs, without spurs the second roof becomes significantly harder
Open end
11/06
-
M11
Dynamic moves and endurance
Häppy
01/04
M9-
M9
Rests before each move with spurs, good rests without spurs
Unleashed
12/05
M10
M11-
Hard crux & endurance, significantly harder without spurs
Fontok
01/04
M10-
M10
Hard finishing crux with or without spurs, with spur good rests
Reise ins Niemands-land
01/04
M7+
M7+
Flat terrain, no advantage with spurs
Kaminkehrer
12/04
M5
M5
Flat terrain, no advantage with spurs
Check the ripper
12/04
M7
M7
Flat terrain, no advantage with spurs
Schall-dämpfer
02/05
M11+
M12
Hard crux & endurance, with or without spurs extremely hard crux
Game Over
01/05
M 12-
M 13-
Good rests with Spur, slightly harder with Spur

Share

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
Recent Comments
  • Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
    Per precisazione:"la sosta a spit" si incontra sul secondo t ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Evergreen
    Ho salito la via questa estate e naturalmente ci siamo conge ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello