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| 1 Parete Nord Nice, highly popular classic that steepens slightly near the top. Generally plenty of snow. First ascent: R. Grandi & R. Crugnola, 1949 Length: 500m Angle: max 55° (often skied down) Grade: AD+ in good conditions Descent: from the Via Normale to the Freschfield saddle and along the Vedretta della Presanella to Rifugio Denza in about 2 1/2 hours. The Via Normale initally follows the western crest before coasting along the Nardis glacier and climbing back up to the Freshfield saddle (3375 m). From here descend onto the Presanella glacier and traverse westwards to the glacial moraine. Continue on a path to the refuge. This itinerary is usually well-marked but pay particular attention not to get lost when visibility is poor. 2 Sperone nord A valid alternative to the Parete Nord. More varied than Parete Nord due to the number of mixed sections. First ascent: G. Jahn & V. Sohm, 1908 Length: 500m Angle: snowy sections up to 55° Grade: AD: mixed route up stepped rock Descent: as for No. 1 3 Via Faustinelli Harder and less repeated than the Parete Nord, this route climbs the wide gully beneath the large summit cornice. Considered by many to be the "true" North up the Presanella. First ascent: G. Faustinelli & R. Maculotti, 1937 Length: 450m Angle: 55° with a steeper finish Grade: D Descent: as for No. 1 4 Via del seracco An impressive, modern safe route up the rounded serac. Good technique is essential to overcome the two vertical pitches. Take a dozen ice screws and obviously two ice axes. First ascent: A. & G. Cortinovis, 1963 direct finish by B. Bettio & S. Tedeschi, 1980 Length: 400m Angle: some 90° sections Grade: TD+ Descent: the route finishes on the shoulder beneath the summit proper. Descend directly along the Via Normale (although it would be a shame not to reach the summit proper…). 5 Via della Goulottina A safe and easy climb up the slope next to the large serrac and in beautiful surroundings. First ascent: unknown Length: 400m Angle: 55° Grade: AD+ Descent: see No. 4 6 Granatina Gully Nice climb in a narrow gully that is rarely in condition. Best climbed in spring when conditions are really good. First ascent: P. Berta, G. Giudicati, M. Preti & G. Seneci, 1980 Length: 450m Angle: 75° Grade: D+ Descent: follow the Via Normale which runs along the summit crest and then descend as for No. 4. 7 Silhouette First ascent: S. Tedeschi, M. Valdinoci & F. Bresciani, 1987 Length: 550m Angle: short 80° sections, though mostly 70° Grade: TD- Descent: follow the Via Normale which runs along the summit crest and then descend as for No. 4. CIMA VERMIGLIO (3458m) 8 Canalone Nord Good, easy alternative to the more popular Parete Nord of the Presanella. First ascent: G & L. Weixlbaumer nel 1955 Length: 550m Angle: 45°, some 55° sections Grade: AD+ Descent: abseil from the summit (slings over spikes) down to the glacier below and then follow the Via Normale on the Presanella. 9 Parete nord Varied and interesting route. Delicate, technical climbing up the ice flow. Alternatively, exit rightwards up the arete to the gully's arête (some sections Grade III). First ascent: H. Steinkotter & C. Maffei, 1974 Length: 550m Angle: 55°- 65°, some 70° sections up the final flow Grade: D+ Descent: as for No. 8 10 Via Anna e Mario A modern route that starts up a steep flow. The route then opens into an debris prone gully that leads to the summit. It should therefore be climbed only in winter/spring or, at the very latest, at the beginning of the season. First ascent: D. Brighenti & P. Giglioli nel 1985 Length: 600m Angle: 55°- 60°, some 75° sections Grade: D+ Descent: as for No. 8 |
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