|Monte Rosa - Cresta Signal
First Ascent: A. Supersaxo and H. W. Topham, 1887
Best time of year
|Useful advice by Alberto Paleari, Mountain Guide and Monte Rosa expert.
1) The guidebook "Monte Rosa, Guida dei Monti d'Italia" by G. Buscaini is excellent. Getting lost is almost impossible if the instructions are followed carefully.
2) The Signal Crest begins at Alagna (or Macugnaga), not at the Colle Signal (3769 m). The first day to the Capanna Resegotti is by far the most tiring. Start early, walk slowly and stop often. Above all, have a good rest at the Barba Ferrero refuge if you start from Alagna (recommended) and at the Colle delle Locce if you start from Macugnaga.
3) The best time of year is the first half of July, when much of the snow is still solid. The Signal Crest is fantastic when almost all of it is done with crampons. After mid-July rocks begin to appear on the slopes and the snow on the easier angled sections becomes heavy.
4) The great Mountain Guide Emillio De Tomasi, from Alagna, recommends proceeding from the first steep rocky section by climbing single pitches. Even the easier sections shouldn't be done in alpine style. Not only is this safer but also faster, for it allows less fit climbers to recover between one pitch and the next.
5) Once you've reached the summit don't be tempted by the Signal Pillar, since the east facing door of the Capanna Margherita (for the generator) is often closed. Walk past it on the right and climb up to the Capanna from the side of the Colle Gnifetti. The final few meters up the Normal Route used to be unpleasant because they pass underneath the Refuge's toilets. Now thankfully a helicopter takes all the waste back down into the valley.
|Alberto Paleari (email@example.com), was born in 1949. He became a Mountain Guide in 1974, progressing to Mountain Guide Instructor in 1982.
He has two daughters, eight years old and five months old.
"I enjoy doing a bit of everything in the mountains, from single pitches and routes at altitude to ski mountaineering. I've never been to the Himalayas and I don't think I'll ever go - the Alps are enough for me."