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  • 15.12.2017 First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report

    First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report

    After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Edgar (Franchini, solo), the first ascent of the NW Face and a repeat of the original route first ascended in 2003 by a Korean expedition.

  • 14.12.2017 Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson

    Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson

    Winter mountaineering in Scotland: on the Church Door Buttress at Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe the expert British mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first ascent of Lost Arrow Winter Variation, describing the demanding line as 'one of the most sustained routes' they have ever climbed in the country.

  • 13.12.2017 New Antarctic climbs by strong American expedition

    New Antarctic climbs by strong American expedition

    An all-star expedition comprised of American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, Savannah Cumins, Alex Honnold, Anna Pfaff, Cedar Wright and the cameraman Pablo Durana is currently in Queen Maud Land in Antarctica where various members have managed to establish a flurry of new rock climbs.

  • 12.12.2017 Adventure and alpinism in the Antarctic: Spectre climbed by Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon

    Adventure and alpinism in the Antarctic: Spectre climbed by Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon

    Alpinism and exploration in Antarctica: Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon have climbed the 1263 m high Spectre peak on the continent’s Gothic Mountains.

    First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report

    First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report

    After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Edgar (Franchini, solo), the first ascent of the NW Face and a repeat of the original route first ascended in 2003 by a Korean expedition.

    Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
    14.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson

    Winter mountaineering in Scotland: on the Church Door Buttress at Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe the expert British mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first ascent of Lost Arrow Winter Variation, describing the demanding line as 'one of the most sustained routes' they have ever climbed in the country.

    New Antarctic climbs by strong American expedition
    13.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    New Antarctic climbs by strong American expedition

    An all-star expedition comprised of American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, Savannah Cumins, Alex Honnold, Anna Pfaff, Cedar Wright and the cameraman Pablo Durana is currently in Queen Maud Land in Antarctica where various members have managed to establish a flurry of new rock climbs.

    Adventure and alpinism in the Antarctic: Spectre climbed by Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon
    12.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Adventure and alpinism in the Antarctic: Spectre climbed by Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon

    Alpinism and exploration in Antarctica: Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon have climbed the 1263 m high Spectre peak on the continent’s Gothic Mountains.

    Rungofarka first ascent in Himalaya by Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau
    11.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Rungofarka first ascent in Himalaya by Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau

    Climbing alpine style over five days, American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made the first ascent of Rungofarka 6495 m in the Zanskar mountain range in the Indian Himalaya.

    Gordon McArthur vs Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 drytooling climb
    09.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Gordon McArthur vs Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 drytooling climb

    The video of Gordon McArthur climbing his route Storm Giant at Fernie, Canada. Freed last August, this is the first dry tooling climb in the world to receive the grade D16.

    Early climbing in slow Scottish winter
    06.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Early climbing in slow Scottish winter

    The winter mountaineering season in Scotland has begun in earnest with three notable ascents on Ben Nevis, Hell’s Lum Crag in the Cairngorms and at Beinn Heasgairnich in the Southern Highlands.

    Kaunergrat Winter Traverse, Matthias & Hansjörg Auer mountaineering in the Ötztal Alps
    05.12.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Kaunergrat Winter Traverse, Matthias & Hansjörg Auer mountaineering in the Ötztal Alps

    Winter mountaineering video: Hansjörg Auer and his brother Matthias and their North - South traverse of the main section of the Kaunergrat ridge in the Ötztal Alps, Austria.

    Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii
    30.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii

    On 28 October 2017 Russian mountaineers Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinskii completed the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. Climbing in alpine style, the two required five days to forge their route up the mountain’s SW Face.

    A Door in the Sky, Fred Fugen and Vince Reffet fly into plane from Jungfrau
    29.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    A Door in the Sky, Fred Fugen and Vince Reffet fly into plane from Jungfrau

    Amazing BASE Jump video: Frédéric Fugen and Vincent Reffet leap off Jungfrau in the Swiss Alps and make a wingsuit flight into an open plane.

    Mountaineering in New Zealand, Ben Dare climbs new route on Mount Cook
    28.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mountaineering in New Zealand, Ben Dare climbs new route on Mount Cook

    On 18 November 2017 Ben Dare from New Zealand made the first ascent, solo, of Remembrance, a new 550 m climb up the South Face of Aoraki / Mt Cook.

    Pangbuk North,  video of the French route in  Nepal
    24.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Pangbuk North, video of the French route in Nepal

    The video of Tolerance Zero, the new climb established by French alpinists Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier up the North Face of Pangbuk North (6589 m) in Nepal.

    Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky
    23.11.2017 by Angelika Rainer in Alpinism

    Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky

    Yesterday at the drytooling crag Tomorrow’s World in the Dolomites Angelika Rainer repeated A Line Above the Sky. With this ascent the climber from the South Tyrol has become the first woman in the world to climb D15 and, in doing so, she has equalled the maximum difficulty ever climbed by her male counterparts.

    Larkya Main, Georgians claim first ascent in Himalaya
    17.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Larkya Main, Georgians claim first ascent in Himalaya

    Georgian mountaineers Giorgi Tepnadze, Bakar Gelashvili and Archil Badriashvili have established a new route up the SE Face of Larkya Main. It is also the first ascent of this 6425m high mountain in the Himalaya.

    French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
    14.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal

    Mountaineering in the Himalayas: in the Lunag Massif (Khumbu region) the French mountaineers Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier have climbed Tolérance Zero, a new 1100m route described as elegant, logical and technical up the North Face of Pangbuk North (6589 m).

    Valery Rozov dies in BASE Jump accident on Ama Dablam
    12.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Valery Rozov dies in BASE Jump accident on Ama Dablam

    52-year-old Valery Rozov, one for the most expert and famous BASE jumpers in the world, has died in a BASE Jump accident on Ama Dablam.

    Cerro Kishtwar, new route in Himalaya climbed by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, Julian Zanker
    11.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Cerro Kishtwar, new route in Himalaya climbed by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, Julian Zanker

    On 14 October 2017 German alpinist Thomas Huber and the Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker made the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’, a new climb up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar. This is only the 4th ascent of the 6155 m peak located in the Indian Himalaya.

    Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus

    Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus

    Last May and June Slovakian alpinists Miroslav Peťo and Maroš Červienka carried out a series of difficult ski descents in the Caucasus massif in Georgia: the SW Ridge of Tetnuldi (4858 m), the SE couloir of Chatyn Tau (4412 m) and, above all, the SE couloir of Ushba North summit (4698 m).

    For Hayden Kennedy & Inge Perkins
    07.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    For Hayden Kennedy & Inge Perkins

    The video tribute to American alpinists Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins.

    Shivling, the video of Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbing  Shiva's Ice
    04.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Shivling, the video of Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbing Shiva's Ice

    The video clip of Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini making the first ascent of Shiva’s Ice, their new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalaya.

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