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Expeditions
Spantik - Title
by Erik Svab

- Introduction
- Expedition
- Details
- Map
- Chronology
Location: Hunza Valley, Pakistan
Objective: Golden Pillar, Spantik 7028m. one of the finest and hardest mountains in the world.
        
Spantik, Karakoram, Pakistan
Spantik and the Golden Pillar

The expedition, organised by the FFME (Federation Francaise de la Montagne et Escalade), was composed of 7 alpinists from five different countries.
The Russians Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy, the Frenchmen Manu Guy and Manu Pellissier, the Hungarian Attila Ozsvath, the Slovenian Marko Prezelj and the Italian/Slovenian Erik Svab. They had all previously met at one of the annual International Meetings organised by the FFME at Chamonix.

The face was climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall.
The 'international' team spent five days making the first repeat of Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler's English route, set up on 5-11 August 1987.

The teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed routes at altitude.

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