Our expedition

After having pitched our tents in the Ak-Su valley (valley of clear waters) at the beginning of August 1996 at the base of the imposing Pie Slesov (4240m), we quickly identified a magnificent unclimbed spur. Our base-camp, situated in a luscious field close to shady juniper bushes and yak herds, was just a few 100m from the start of the route.

"Una stella per Ulughbek" as it was eventually named, is 27 pitches long (1000m), graded VI+ and ascends up magnificent and often vertical granite cracks. One third of the route was prepared prior to the actual climb and the night spent in a freezing bivouac on the summit, gazing at the thousands of stars above.

Introduction

The Pamir Alay and the Asan-Usan region

Brief history and the current situation

Getting there - The climate and the people

Our expedition

Resources

Thanks to an extended period of excellent weather we succeeded in putting up two other new routes in the Ak-Su valley, namely "Trenta passi nella meta del cielo", 700m, Vlll- rising up magnificent slabs and cracks, and "Est per Giacomo", 350 m, V which climbs up the crest of a typical pyramidal spire.

The rest of our time was spent reading, going on panoramic walks and sharing moments with the Kirghisi shepherds and their children. Finally, we visited Samarkand, still profoundly evocative of the journeys to the treasures of the Orient, with its mosques and navy blue sun-baked majohca domes. It was the perfect ending to our trip.

Our expedition

Componenti

Marco Borghetti (C.A.I. Parma)
Roberto Invernizzi (C.A.I. Parma)
Stefano Righetti (C.A.A.I.)

Time of the year

1-28 August 1996

Region

Pamir Alay, Asan-Usan, Ak-Su (Kirghistan)

Mountains and routes

Pic Slesov (4240m), southern spur "Una stella per Ulughbek", 1000m, VII+

Pic Slesov, western buttress "Trenta passi nella meta del cielo", 600m, Vll+

Piramyde du Pamir (3100m), south west crest "Est per Giacomo", 350m, V